The King of Hams

Ask someone to come up with a list of five things they consider to be intrinsically Spanish and they’ll probably reel off sombreros, castanets, flamenco, bullfights and paella. Rarely will they include that most pungent and favoured national treasure – Jamón Serrano.

But walk into any tapas bar in Spain and you’ll find this symbol of Spain hanging from the rafters in all its raw glory. Cured for over a year, sliced with razor-sharp precision, and proudly served arm-in-arm with any accompaniment – liquid or solid – the king of hams has a deserved position in the roll-call of Spanish emblems.

The word ‘Serrano’ refers to the Sierras, or mountains, where clean air, perfect humidity and cold winters provide the best environment for production.

A great deal of pride goes into the preparation of the ham, even down to the feeding of the pig whose hind legs provide the delicacy; nothing but mountain acorns from scrub oaks and cork trees is the preferred diet. After that, only salt and a great deal of waiting time are added before the ham is ready.

Traditionally, a ham-meister would test if the leg was ready to grace a tapas plate by inserting a splinter of cow bone into the ham and sniffing it like a wine connoisseur.

Different types of Spanish ham

‘Ordinary’ Jamón Serrano (although if you’ve tasted it, there’s nothing ordinary about it) is made from white pigs, usually fed on a commercial blend of cereals and air-cured for a minimum of 12 months. You’ll see it in the supermarket under various guises – Jamón Serrano, Jamón Curado, Jamón Reserva or Jamón Extra. Don’t be fooled, all are just marketing terms.

Jamón Ibérico is made only from the hind legs of an Iberia pig. Previously called Pata Negra, because of the black hooves, this has a more refined taste due to the extra curing and also the breed of pig.

Jamón Ibérico de Bellota is the champagne of cured Spanish ham. Made from Iberian pigs that have been fed exclusively on acorns and herbs, this can cost up to five times as much as the everyday version.

Jamón Ibérico de Recebo occupies the middle ground. Iberian pigs are fed with commercial feed until the last month, when their diet changes to acorns.

Although Spanish ham uses the hind legs of a pig, the front legs can be used as well. Labelled ‘Paletilla’, the same process of curing is used but the end product tends to fattier than the other types.

And it’s good for you!
As well as being a damn fine accompaniment to a bowl of olives and a glass of Rioja, Jamón Serrano also has several health benefits. High in iron, zinc, magnesium, calcium, phosphorous and vitamins B1 and B2, 100 grams adds just 200 calories to your waistline and it provides more protein than fresh meat.